New taqueria offers authentic Mexican selections

By Mondell Keck

The Brookings Register

Posted 5/3/24

BROOKINGS — Taqueria El Jarocho is providing a new option for authentic Mexican food in Brookings, and its menu includes items such as tripas, tongues, quesabirrias, empanadas, stomachs and, …

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New taqueria offers authentic Mexican selections

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BROOKINGS — Taqueria El Jarocho is providing a new option for authentic Mexican food in Brookings, and its menu includes items such as tripas, tongues, quesabirrias, empanadas, stomachs and, yes, even meat from cows’ heads.

The restaurant at 605 Main Ave. is managed by Mary Machado, and her chef is Daniel Andrade. It opened around two months ago, and is the culmination of a long-held dream for the pair.

“It’s just a small dream that we had and we just worked hard for it, and we put all of our heart into it, a lot of hours, tears, laughs — a lot of stuff has happened in this place,” Machado said in an interview with the Brookings Register. “We are really happy to be here, we are really happy that it’s going as well as it’s going. … We are really happy that we are able to provide something different to the community, to provide a different flavor, to provide a different way to eat Mexican food and we just hope to continue delivering that.”

The aforementioned menu has proven to be a hit with their customers, especially for those who are on the go.

“We specialize more — we’re not like an actual restaurant. We’re more like, if you can imagine, kind of like a fast-food Mexican,” she said. “So you will come, we have — everything is supposed to be really fast, so it will be a really short time if you’re waiting. It’s going to be tacos, quesadillas and quesabirrias and tortas and stuff that are more to-go for you to just grab, take home or eat here.”

She continued, “We try to stay more in the authentic crowd, kind of like bringing a little bit of Mexico here to South Dakota and, yeah, that’s what we are.”

One of the really popular items, Machado said, have been their quesabirrias.

“They are kind of like a quesadilla, but they’re going to have shredded beef inside. The shredded beef is kind of like a roast, so all the marinate we put into that roast becomes kind of like a soup, so we give a little bit of a dip of that soup so people can grab their tacos and dip them,” she explained. “The shredded beef, it’s really tender and it really melts in your mouth, so whenever you mix it with the cheese and tortillas, it really gives a unique texture and combination of flavors.”

Machado is very appreciative, too, that customers seem to be willing to come and try new things — say, for example, tongues.

“We have different types of meats, or out-of-the-ordinary types of meat,” she said. “We have tongue and stomach and intestines and sometimes we bring the head of a cow, and we offer tacos of that.”

Machado added, “Those types of meat are really popular in Mexico, but not as popular (in the United States) — so it’s something new that we’re bringing so people know more about it, and I think we have had really good reception from the community in trying to push their boundaries and try those new types of meat and trying a little bit of the culture.”

She offered insights into each type of meat:

  • Tongue: She described it as a really tender meat. “It kind of reminds you of a really expensive piece of steak.”
  • Stomach: The stomach, she said, is more chewy in nature. “The more that you chew it, the more flavor that it has.”
  • Tripas: These are made from the small intestines of animals and, Machado said, are really crunchy and crispy.

“The three of them come with different textures and flavors — it’s kind of interesting to try them all and see what they’re about,” Machado said.

You might want to leave a little bit of room for the restaurant’s empanadas as well. They’re a newer addition to the menu and have proven to be really popular with, Machado said. Basically, it’s a pastry turnover filled with a variety of savory ingredients — shredded beef in Taqueria El Jarocho’s case — and is fried.

It’s not just their food that’s rooted in Mexico; so is the business’s name.

“The inspiration of the name is actually where (Andrade) is from. So, he’s from the state of Vera Cruz, and the people from that part of Mexico are called Jarochos,” Machado. “That’s a specific name that they use over there. There’s a lot of parts of Mexico that they use different names — for example, people from (Mexico City), they’re called Chilangos or people from Vera Cruz (are) Jarochos and from Guadalajara, they’re called Tapatios. So, each state has a different, how they call their people. That’s why we came up with the name. He’s from there, so something that can resemble where he’s from and his culture and his people, family and everything.”

Machado herself originally hails from Venezuela, and a lot of the staff comes from Guatemala. She’s made Brookings her home for a decade now, and earned bachelor’s and master’s degrees from South Dakota State University.

“I really love Brookings. I think it’s a really, really nice city where it’s not that big, not that small,” Machado said. “I just love the community, how everyone can be really (supportive of) each other.”

She continued, “(People) come and it’s something new, and they will come and try it out and try to give you recommendations or try to hook you up with someone else for help with media or help with word-of-mouth about the place. I feel like that sense of community is really great, and I feel a lot of other towns don’t have it — and I’m really glad that Brookings (does).”

For his part, Andrade has set his sights on showcasing the food his skills produce.

“For him, it’s more to get his culture more out — like the Mexican culture, the Mexican food — and offer something different that maybe other places don’t have,” Machado translated for Andrade. “I think, for him, it’s really important to really showcase what Mexican food is. It’s not only one type, it can be a lot of stuff. For him, it’s really important to give a little bit to the community about where he’s from, what are his traditions, and give a little bit of that to everyone else here.”

So, if you’re looking for another flavor of Mexico, go no further than Taqueria El Jarocho. They’re on Facebook and Instagram, and can also be contacted at 605-692-8282 for things such as take-out, reservations or catering.

“Just come and try us,” Machado said. “I know sometimes a lot of people are like, ‘Another Mexican restaurant? We have so many already. I want Olive Garden, I want Italian.’ I think that if people give us that opportunity to come and try us, they’re not going to be disappointed.

“We put a lot of heart and flavor into our food,” she said. “We’re trying to be as authentic as we can — which sometimes (means) we’re too authentic. We’re like, ‘We don’t have sour cream,’ so a lot of people are like, ‘Oh, no! No sour cream!’”

She continued, “We’re trying to give that sense of you are walking on a street in Mexico and you just stopped to eat a taco (from a) small vendor while you are shopping.”

— Contact Mondell Keck at mkeck@brookingsregister.com.